Wind, Waves, Whales and Women in Wakatobi

Our journey to Wakatobi was far from tranquil, facing constant winds exceeding 20 knots ahead of the beam, making the voyage quite uncomfortable. It was the first time Karen's brother Russell and his wife Tania experienced such sailing conditions on Our Dreamtime, especially since meeting rally deadlines demands this kind of sailing. To be part of the action, one must adhere to the schedule, even when events are moved up to accommodate the frontrunners.

Upon reaching Pulau Buru's southwest corner, we were greeted by rough seas and strong winds, making movement below deck hazardous. We constantly reminded the crew to maintain balance using the rule "one hand for you and one hand for the boat."

We had moments of weightlessness followed by thundering down the other side of the waves. This was only one of our concerns as we came up on a pod of sperm whales, one larger than Our Dreamtime, from then on our senses were on high alert for any more, that could cause massive damage too us and them if we happen to collide.

Karen had anticipated this weather and had meals prepared in the lee of the island, thanks to the ShuttleChef. Its presence onboard is indispensable for us.

The relief of knowing it was just a one-night passage was shared by all. We sail for enjoyment, and battling unfavorable weather not only adds strain on the crew, but also raises concerns about equipment failures. One of our main grievances about this rally is its brisk pace, with long distances between stops leaving no room for maintenance or consideration of weather conditions. While Raymond Lesmana does an excellent job organizing events in Indonesia, we in our opinion feel that his partners, who promote the Wonderful Sail2Indonesia Rally, haven't planned a route conducive to a leisurely sailing holiday. In fact, they have no sailing experience in the region of Indonesia.

We successfully navigated the passage without any equipment failures, although the same cannot be said for our crew or others attempting the route. Our crew firmly agreed that they had no interest in anymore night watches. However, all concerns dissipated as we entered the safety of Wanci Harbour and docked against a floating dock – yes, you read that right. We just might be considering a longer stay here. Despite the docks lack of facilities and the need for repairs, stepping off the boat onto dry land in a decent pair of shoes is a refreshing change.

Wakatobi provides cruisers with essential amenities such as a night market, fuel, laundry services, smaller supermarkets, and a variety of restaurants and warungs. Given that this is a tourist destination, prices may be slightly higher. If you are here as part of the rally, the Tourism office is bustling with activity, offering free tour guides (University students studying Tourism and English) to assist you with various activities. They will accompany you to markets, shopping trips, and even take you on their scooters for more distant excursions (remember to cover their fuel costs despite their protests).

The name Wakatobi originates from the four main islands: Wangi-Wangi (WA), Kaledupa (KA), Tomea (TO), and Binongko (Bi), which are part of the larger Tukang Besi island chain.

The entire Wakatobi District is designated as a National Marine Park, covering a total area of 1.4 million hectares, with 900,000 hectares containing 150 islands and diverse species of tropical coral reefs. Renowned as Indonesia's largest barrier reef, Wakatobi rivals the Great Barrier Reef in Australia globally. Visitors are required to pay Marine Park Fees, with costs varying depending on activities within the park. Many of these fees are typically included in dive/snorkeling tour packages.

The waters surrounding Wakatobi are home to a diverse array of fish species, serving as a vibrant ecosystem for dolphins, turtles, and even whales to thrive. Wakatobi itself boasts an impressive 942 fish species and 750 coral reef species out of the world's total collection of 850. In comparison, the Caribbean Sea houses only 50 species and the Red Sea in Egypt has 300 coral reef species. Wakatobi's allure stems from the recognition that people are willing to travel great distances to witness one of the last remaining stunning reefs on Earth. While we didn't explore the underwater world firsthand, reports from those who did were positive, citing healthy reefs and abundant marine life. Notably, Wakatobi holds the world record for underwater marriages, currently standing at 2000. Go Figure!

While Wakatobi has long been known in the diving community, its terrestrial life remains equally fascinating. From the Bajo Villages with their maritime traditions to mountain villages preserving age-old crafts, and luxurious resorts for those seeking relaxation, there's something for everyone.

Exploring the island on motorcycles, venturing to nearby resorts for a break from boat life, and indulging in local cuisine were some of our Wakatobi highlights. 

Visiting Liya Village and witnessing traditional sarong-making as a main livelihood was enriching. You can read the full details of our tour to Liya here 🔽

http://dreamtimesail.blogspot.com/2024/04/liya-toga-village-that-has-rhythm-if.html

However, the pinnacle of our experience was participating in the Kabuenga Ceremony, fondly dubbed "Fisherman finds a Wife" by Rob. This event beautifully encapsulated tradition, culture, and romance as eligible bachelors sought their soulmates in a unique and meaningful way. 

You can read in detail about the Kabuenga Ceremony 🔽

http://dreamtimesail.blogspot.com/2024/04/traditional-courting-ceremony-that.html

You can see the moving pictures of our time spent at Wakatobi ▶️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp91

A warm welcome from the Chief of Police and his wife in traditional costume 

Thanks for catching our latest Blog, cheers R&K 

You maybe interested in the following 🔽

We found paradise but we may never leave as our anchor is stuck solid. You can watch it here. 👉  http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87

If you are travelling to Indonesia by boat you maybe interested in the following guides.

It’s Time to set Sail is a guide to completing all of the required 

paperwork to leave Australia with your boat. 

You can find further details ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/oYr5h

All you need to know about Provisioning - if this is your first big adventure, provisioning can be a little daunting. This EBook helps you work out what you need, with a full interactive provisioning spreadsheet. Passage plan meals, with recipes. 

You can find more detail on this book ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/SvXry

This interactive Ebook takes from Brisbane to Horn Island without a night passage, discovering beautiful parts of the Queensland coast rarely visited. The EBook supplies all of our tracks and anchorage waypoints, with what anchoring conditions we were in. But it also gives you full details of what to see and do at each remarkable destination.

You can find out more about this EBook here ▶️  https://payhip.com/b/pxLMX

Is this your first time into Indonesia? This amazing country has so much too offer the cruiser. What we can say is sometimes paperwork can be overwhelming. This interactive guide is to help you wade through the 

officialdom and come out the other side without tearing your hair out.

You can find out more about this guide here ▶️  https://payhip.com/b/YEeQ7

If you would like to buy all 4 of the above EBooks to help your sailing journey you can at a discount. Because you have read to this far on our blog, as a thank you we say here’s 20% off the bundle price!

So head to our book store ▶️ https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail 

and use this code at checkout  ▶️ WOTZCNM6JL

Other books you might enjoy 

Thank you to all who support us through watching our videos, reading our blogs or who step up and support us though Patreon and Ko-Fi. You inspire us everyday to be creative 🙌

You can help us out and support our creative work for FREE. 

By watching, 👍, 🔔, Subscribing, Commenting and best of all Sharing this video or blog with your friends 

If you would like to make a donation towards our creative work, you can by heading over to Ko-Fi they take no fees so the support goes directly into helping us buy and upgrade equipment 

Do you want more? 

Patreon gives you that … you get behind the scenes updates, 

Patreon only photos and posts, you can watch our 

episodes ad free and before they go public … you get it first!

Another way of support is through buying from our store.

Checkout the range of books we have available 

https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail

Liya Toga a village that has a rhythm of it’s own.

The Liya Togo Village, and historical Fort site, is a fascinating destination for various reasons. It provides a unique glimpse into culture and history within a picturesque highland village. The Liya Togs Fort stands out as the largest fort in Wakatobi, renowned as a significant historical landmark not only in Wanci-Wanci but also across Indonesia. Constructed using local coral, egg whites, and lime dough, the fort and mosque have remarkably stood the test of time despite their traditional building methods.

Exploring the area alongside Michelle and Jeff from the catamaran Seahorse, we discovered their shared passion for textiles. For Karen and Michelle, this trip was highly anticipated, while Jeff and Rob were excited about the renowned seafood lunch that Michelle and Jeff had recommended.

Our feet dangling over the water at the Seafood Restaurant. The food was superb.

After a 30-minute drive from Wanci, we reached Liya Village, where indigenous Liya women warmly welcomed us, dressing us in traditional sarongs. It was interesting to observe the diverse ways the sarong was worn at each location we visited, showcasing the versatility of this single piece of cloth. However, we must admit that this particular style of wearing the sarong was not the most flattering.

Our initial stroll led us to rows of ancient frangipani trees that have stood for a century, bordering the northern edge of a small field and providing shade to the historical graveyard where notable figures from Libya's past rest. 

This field is a significant site known as a Buluara, where in the 14th century during the empire, King Liya and his nobles would convene to discuss and make important decisions. The wall enclosing the area features worn seats where these influential individuals would gather. Additionally, the field served as a training ground for soldiers honing their skills before heading into battle.

Towards the east lies a mosque, constructed at the same time as the fort, dating back many centuries. Though we did not enter due to differing beliefs.

On the southern side stands a weathered pile of rocks known as Tugu Liya, translating to "small hole." Legend has it that a lost boy discovered a ray of light emanating from this spot while searching for an exit from an underground cave through a small hole. So here lays the monument to that fable.

To the west of the field stands an open timber structure called a Baruga, where indigenous elders of Liya would gather for meetings. The upper floor was reserved for nobility, the middle for the middle class, and the lower level for common folk. We were graciously welcomed into the Baruga to try a traditional drink – a delightful tamarind juice made from the wild tamarind fruit abundant in the village.

After an enlightening tour of the fort's historic grounds and enjoying delicious Tamarind juice, we embarked on a stroll through the village. Our journey began by passing through the impressive gatehouses of the fort, marveling at the depth of the wall structure. As we wandered the village streets, we observed the locals carrying out their daily tasks. This village, though occasionally visited by tourists, maintains an authentic atmosphere without being a typical tourist destination. The residents are genuinely welcoming but focused on their daily routines.

Our main interest was witnessing the creation of hand-woven sarongs, especially for Karen, who has a passion for textiles. It didn't take long before we encountered a woman weaving, passing down family designs from one generation to the next. 

Without pattern books, each sarong may vary in color but maintains the same design. Learning to weave a sarong is a significant skill for young women before marriage. Besides intricate weaving, artisans also craft mats, bags, and baskets from pandanus leaves. 

Meanwhile, fishermen diligently repair their nets, skillfully weaving lines back and forth. The village seems to operate to its own rhythm, echoing the shuttle's movements during weaving.

If you would like to see our moving pictures of our visit to Liya Village and the Fort you can find the link ▶️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp91

Thanks for catching our latest Blog, cheers R&K 

You maybe interested in the following 🔽

We found paradise but we may never leave as our anchor is stuck solid. You can watch it here. 👉  http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87

If you are travelling to Indonesia by boat you maybe interested in the following guides.

It’s Time to set Sail is a guide to completing all of the required 

paperwork to leave Australia with your boat. 

You can find further details ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/oYr5h

All you need to know about Provisioning - if this is your first big adventure, provisioning can be a little daunting. This EBook helps you work out what you need, with a full interactive provisioning spreadsheet. Passage plan meals, with recipes. 

You can find more detail on this book ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/SvXry

This interactive Ebook takes from Brisbane to Horn Island without a night passage, discovering beautiful parts of the Queensland coast rarely visited. The EBook supplies all of our tracks and anchorage waypoints, with what anchoring conditions we were in. But it also gives you full details of what to see and do at each remarkable destination.

You can find out more about this EBook here ▶️  https://payhip.com/b/pxLMX

Is this your first time into Indonesia? This amazing country has so much too offer the cruiser. What we can say is sometimes paperwork can be overwhelming. This interactive guide is to help you wade through the 

officialdom and come out the other side without tearing your hair out.

You can find out more about this guide here ▶️  https://payhip.com/b/YEeQ7

If you would like to buy all 4 of the above EBooks to help your sailing journey you can at a discount. Because you have read to this far on our blog, as a thank you we say here’s 20% off the bundle price!

So head to our book store ▶️ https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail 

and use this code at checkout  ▶️ WOTZCNM6JL

Other books you might enjoy 

Thank you to all who support us through watching our videos, reading our blogs or who step up and support us though Patreon and Ko-Fi. You inspire us everyday to be creative 🙌

You can help us out and support our creative work for FREE. 

By watching, 👍, 🔔, Subscribing, Commenting and best of all Sharing this video or blog with your friends 

If you would like to make a donation towards our creative work, you can by heading over to Ko-Fi they take no fees so the support goes directly into helping us buy and upgrade equipment 

Do you want more? 

Patreon gives you that … you get behind the scenes updates, 

Patreon only photos and posts, you can watch our 

episodes ad free and before they go public … you get it first!

Another way of support is through buying from our store.

Checkout the range of books we have available 

https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail